Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple: My Favorite Temple in Kyoto
As crowds mob Kyoto’s most famous Buddhist temples robbing them of their inherent spiritual appeal and tranquility, Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, just a short journey from the city’s ancient center, and home to more than 1,200 unique stone Rakan statues, provides the space, the solitude and the zen a weary traveler desires.
For nearly 12 centuries, Kyoto has been a political, spiritual and cultural mecca in the Land of the Rising Sun. Its appeal as a destination of immersion in Japanese culture has beckoned millions of international visitors annually, solidifying it as the second most visited city in Japan -- Tokyo being the first. And, there is good reason. Kyoto, one of the oldest municipalities in Japan serving as the home of the imperial court for nearly 11 centuries beginning with Emperor Kanmu in 794, is unique in its history and preserved beauty.
Housing nearly 2,000 Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, palaces, gardens, tea houses and historic districts, Kyoto is home to 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites. And so, it is appropriately and obviously top of list for many foreigners looking for an authentic Japanese experience. But beyond the 17 recognized highlights in Kyoto, there are thousands of secret sanctuaries, infrequently visited by tourists, that offer equally profound and moving experiences for a curious visitor. Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple is a perfect example of this.
Just a short journey from the city’s ancient center, Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple is an unexpected treasure nestled in the Arishyama neighborhood of Kyoto. First built in 766 near Kyoto’s Gion district, the original temple structure was destroyed when the Kamo River flooded. It has since been leveled several times by subsequent natural disasters such as typhoons and fires. In 1922, it was moved to its current location and has continued to evolve for decades here under the artistic vision of three generations of Buddhist monks from the Nishimura family. The signature calling card of this truly whimsical temple is the 1,200 Rakan, stone statues of Buddhist followers each unique in expression and gesture.
These remarkable sculptures were created by everyday pilgrims who came to the grounds to learn how to carve under the tutelage of Kocho Nishimura in the 1980s. Some Rakan are immortalized in pious prayer, others with heads thrown back in fits of laughter and gentle comraderie holding tools or artifacts that provide subtle clues to the hobbies and crafts of their creators.Today, as you traverse the lush grounds of this absolutely one-of-a-kind temple, there is no doubt that you are communing with something larger than the here and now. Whether it is art, nature or a call to prayer, Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple is a sacred space, devoid of crowds, and robust in the solitude and the zen that a weary traveler desires.
